Eastern Fields are true oceanic reef systems
lying some 100 miles south of Port Moresby in the northern
part of the Coral Sea. Unlike Osprey & Bouganville
Reefs in the Australian part of the Coral Sea, Eastern
Fields is not subject to the frequent and damaging cyclones
that batter this part of the Pacific Ocean from January
- March. As a consequence Eastern Fields are unsullied.
Like all oceanic reefs Eastern Fields seem to rise
from the abyssal depths. The outer walls plunge thousands
of feet to the sea bed below. And with no runoff from
nearby islands (there are none!) and with such deep
water all around visibility here can be so awesome that
it defies description! Eastern Fields are the remnant
of some long forgotten volcanic island that has, through
time, slowly sunk back into the sea. Because of the
clarity of the water sunlight filters to far greater
depths than normal, and the constant upwellings of fresh
and nutrient rich water coral growth is rich and furious.
Not only do corals grow to great depths but corals that
are normally associated with deep water, such as larger
sea fans, huge soft coral and black coral trees can
be found in relatively shallow waters. You do not need
to go deep here to see some of the most spectacular
coral formations in the world.
And because of the rich coral growth, the nutrient-laden
currents and the pristine condition of the entire ecosytem,
the food chain is intact and magnificent. Billions of
fish billow across the reef - anthias, fuseliers, humbugs,
etc in a profusion of colour an shapes. Higher up the
food chain an be found great schools of snapper, bass,
jacks, barracuda and batfish surge around the corners
of the reef where the current is strongest. And higher
still can be found apex predators - rainbow runners,
dogfin tuna, and, of course, sharks. Here at Eastern
Fields many species of shark can be found. Perhaps most
common are grey reefs, whitetips and silvertips, but
it is not uncommon to sea schooling hammerheads, or
the odd bronze whaler. If you are lucky, you may see
a tiger shark or a great hammerhead! Golden Dawn only
does 5 or 6 trips to Eastern Fields in any one year.
As a consequence the sharks are curious of humans and
imminently approachable - or should that be we humans
are very intriguing and imminently approachable!!!
Diving in the Eastern Fields is perhaps best described
as "gorilla diving". It is certainly not for
the faint hearted, nor for the inexperienced. The diving
is done over deep water, with strong currents, and amongst
creatures with little respect for divers!!! If you want
to be engulfed by a swirling school of barracuda or
watch 40 grey reef sharks enjoy a feeding frenzy then
this is perhaps the best place in the world to go! But
Eastern Fields has some subtle surprises too! The biggest,
fattest and juciest soft coral trees in the world; none
of your cauliflower-sized numbers here - they can be
bigger than a human, and in the most vivid reds, yellows,
purples, blues and pinks. Search amongst these intensely
coloured fronds and you will find coral crabs and shrimps,
nudibranchs and dainty shells. Sea fans of barn door
proportions, on the downstream side of which schools
of glassfish nestle from the sweeping currents. On the
sea fans can be found gobies mimicking perfectly the
colour of their habitat; cowries that even have little
tufty growths that match the feeding polyps of the sea
fan. And amongst the myriad and multi-coloured feather
stars that perch upon every coral head you may even
find a rhinopias or two!