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ATOL 4112. ATOL Protection extends primarily to
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| Dive Sites |
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Yap is most famous for its resident population of manta rays that
come to cleaning stations in the channels between the shallow lagoon
that surrounds the island and the open Pacific Ocean beyond. It is
assumed that the mantas also use the shallow and protected inner lagoons
and magroves to give birth to their live young, though this is still
yet to be witnessed first hand.
But there is more to diving in Yap than manta rays. Being in the western
section of Micronesia Yap has an abundance of coral reefs teeming
with fish of every shape & size, and spectacularly deep walls
that drop off into the ocean abyss.
But despite the reefs that abound in Yap, people ultimately want
to see the 100 or so mantas that make Yap their home year round.
In the winter, from December to April they live on the western side
of the island, being groomed by cleaner wrasse at the cleaning stations
in Mil Channel and mating their time away! In the summer they
are usually found on the eastern side of the island, in Goofnow
Channel and at the Valley of the Rays.
The mantas come to the cleaning stations to be tended to by cleaner
wrasse and certain species of other reef fish pick parasites from
their skin and in their cavernous mouths. The rays swoop in like
giant stealth bombers to hang, suspended above the coral outcrops
on the edge of the channels that are the cleaning stations. They
hover for a few minutes before swooping round, letting someone else
have a turn. If you are in the tight place you can quite literally
look down the gaping maw of a 14ft manta ray and look out through
their gills! During the winter mating season as many as 12 mantas
can be seen flying in bomber formation through the channels.
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- MIL CHANNEL
A channel that runs through the barrier reef on the western side
of the Yap, this is perhaps the most famous dive site in Yap and,
with Goofnow Channel on the other side of the island, is probably
the best manta dive in the world. The channel varies from 50-100ft
deep, though at the entrance on the seaward side the bottom slopes
way into the depths of the Pacific. At the area where the cleaning
stations are to be found the sand and rubble bottom is about 50
or 60ft deep, and the sides of the channel rise in a gentle slope
to the shallows. The reef top is in only a few feet of water.
On the northern side of the channel a series of small coral heads
rise from the reef; these are the cleaning stations, and known
as Manta Ridge, a ridge of coral that juts into the channel and
thus accentuating the current that flows with the tide. For the
photographer, the best place to be is leaning into the current,
behind the coral heads that dot the ridge, keeping low and out
of trouble until the mantas approach. The mantas will then come
in to the stations and hover there while being cleaned. On an
incoming tide it is possible to drift down the sides of the channel
from the ocean and stop at Manta Ridge. You can, on occasion,
see the mantas coming in along the channel at your side! The sides
of the channel are an array of hard and soft corals, including
great carpets of leather & purple soft corals. Beyond Manta
Ridge the channel becomes wider and deeper, and the current, spread
over a wider area, slackens off. At Manta Ray Bay, in about
60ft a large coral bommie acts as another cleaning station. Here
you can kneel on the sandy bottom at watch the mantas come in
to be cleaned. Unusually, butterflyfish & angelfish are also
common cleaning species in this area.
- VERTIGO
Motor out of Mil Channel and hang a left down the reef and
you will find Vertigo. Here the reef drops from about 20ft to
over 300ft, and is the deepest and most spectacular of all the
drop-offs. Here can be found the sheer drops so famous to coral
reefs around the world, where grey reef sharks, whitetips and
turtles can be seen cruising the open water. Due to its close
proximity to Mil Channel you can often see mantas cruising
by. The shallows are a series of coral gardens interspersed with
large scattered coral bommies that offer protection for sweetlips,
snapper and other fish. From about 80ft a profusion of black coral
trees sprout from the reef, and are home to a variety of small
reef fish and interesting macro critters.
- YAP CAVERNS
One of the most famous "non-manta" dives in Yap, these
caverns and swim-throughs cut into the coral wall at the southern
most point in Yap from between 10 and 60ft down the wall. The
sunlight plays into these caverns giving them a tranquil quality
as it flickers through the surface water and reflects off the
sandy bottom. The fissures are covered in cup corals and hydroids,
soft corals and algae and are home to a host of critters from
nudibranchs to gobies. Whitetips are frequently seen resting on
the sand that covers the canyon floors, and morays can be found
in the numerous holes.. On the outside of the reef you can expect
to see schooling barracuda, humpheaded parrotfish and occasionally
tuna & rainbow runner. Grey reef sharks are another frequent
visitor to the area.
- YAP CORNER
This is a recently discovered dive site, and is similar to its
namesake in Palau, Blue Corner, but with a considerably less original
name!!! A coral outcrop jutting out from the main wall that drops
from 20ft to well beyond the reach of your average sport diver,
Yap Corners 2 knot currents sweep a variety of grey reef
sharks, large schools of snapper, jacks, barracuda and eagle rays
along the wall. The faster the current the more action there is!
- LIONFISH WALL
The southern most point of Yaps fringing reef, this wall
juts out into the Pacific, allowing currents to wash over it in
all directions. Coral growth is prolific, and as a consequence
there is plenty of fish action also. A 130ft vertical drop to
a 70ft slope and then a ledge at 200ft, then tips into the abyss.
The entire reef is covered in daisy corals and multicolour feather
stars., and the numerous holes in the reef are home to dozens
of lionfish that feed on the numerous glassfish and other smaller
fish species that frequent the reef. The upper reaches of the
wall are resplendent with thousands of yellow fairy basslets and
the eagle eyed may spy the odd leaf fish flopping this way and
that in the gentle current. The deep water off the reef is home
to numerous sharks, turtles, eagle rays, tuna, mantas and schooling
fish such as jacks, barracuda, bass & snapper.
- VALLEY OF THE RAYS
Valley of the Rays is a section of Goofnow Channel, the eastern
side of Yaps answer to Mil Channel. It is here that
the mantas can be found during the summer months of May
November. The sandy channel floor is about 50-70ft deep and numerous
coral outcrops dotted across the seabed act as the manta cleaning
stations. The largest is a monstrous lettuce coral formation called
the Merry-Go-Round and is the largest single cleaning station
in Yap. A similar, but smaller lettuce coral formation on the
northern side of the channel is called the Carwash. A mere
60ft from Carwash is a large coral boomie that rises 40ft from
the seabed to within 30ft of the surface; Manta Rock is
a good place for divers to seek some shelter if the current is
strong! The rim of the channel is covered in magnificent formations
of plate & staghorn corals. Mantas come to the cleaning stations
in the morning; when the current is running they hover motionless,
nose into the current, as the cleaning fish go about their duty.
If the current is slack they tend to move slowly (as slowly as
possible for a 12ft manta is hard work!) about above the cleaning
stations, allowing the fish to dart out for a few seconds before
popping back to the safety of their homes.
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